GR20 · Corsica

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

Europe’s toughest waymarked trek.

The GR20 crosses Corsica along its granite spine from north-west to south-east and is rightly called the hardest waymarked trail in Europe. Flat ground barely exists: every day means slabs, chains on the steeper steps and around a thousand metres of height gain. We walk the full Calenzana to Conca line in twelve walking days, sleeping in the national park refuges.

• The full Calenzana to Conca line
• Granite slabs and chains in the Cinto massif
• Lakes Nino and Melo at first light
• Park refuges with Corsican cooking

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Transfer and briefing

   Calvi, briefing and start in Calenzana

   We meet in Calvi, weigh the packs and drive to Calenzana at 275 m. An evening briefing on water, weather and pace: on the GR20 you leave at six to stay ahead of the heat.

   Overnight: Guesthouse in Calenzana
2. 02
   DAY 2 · 12 km, 1,400 m of ascent

   Calenzana to Ortu di u Piobbu

   The most honest of introductions: 1,400 m of ascent through maquis and rock over six or seven hours. The refuge sits at 1,570 m looking back to the bay of Calvi.

   Overnight: Refuge Ortu di u Piobbu, 1,570 m
3. 03
   DAY 3 · 8 km, 750 m of ascent

   To Carrozzu via the Mulinello

   A rocky traverse with chains and a descent into the Spasimata gorge. Short in kilometres but six hours long, because the hands are in use almost constantly.

   Overnight: Refuge Carrozzu, 1,270 m
4. 04
   DAY 4 · 9 km, 900 m of ascent

   The Spasimata bridge and Asco

   We cross the famous suspension bridge, climb to Bocca Muvrella at 2,020 m and drop into the Asco valley. In the evening a shower and the first proper meal in three days.

   Overnight: Asco Stagnu, 1,422 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · 10 km, 1,000 m of ascent

   Around Cinto to Tighjettu

   A climb past Pointe des Eboulis to the col at 2,183 m below Monte Cinto, at 2,706 m the highest point of Corsica. A scree descent leads to Tighjettu refuge.

   Overnight: Refuge Tighjettu, 1,683 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · 17 km, 800 m of climbing

   Castel de Vergio via Ciottulu

   A long day past Ciottulu di i Mori at 1,991 m, where the river Golo is born. By evening we enter the Valdo-Niello pine forest and sleep at the hotel by the Vergio pass.

   Overnight: Hotel Castel de Vergio, 1,404 m
7. 07
   DAY 7 · 15 km, 600 m of climbing

   Lake Nino and the Camputile plateau

   The gentlest stage on the route: Lake Nino at 1,743 m, ringed by peat pozzines where horses graze. We finish at Manganu, the highest refuge on the GR20.

   Overnight: Refuge Manganu, 1,601 m
8. 08
   DAY 8 · 11 km, 900 m of climbing

   Breche de Capitellu and the lakes

   The high point of the north: the Breche de Capitellu at 2,225 m, the highest point on the trail, with lakes Melo and Capitello below. Then a ridge traverse to Petra Piana.

   Overnight: Refuge Petra Piana, 1,842 m
9. 09
   DAY 9 · 10 km, 700 m of climbing

   The ridge variant to Onda

   We take the high ridge variant, with both coasts of the island in view for hours. In the evening we drop to Onda at 1,430 m and get ready for the long stage to Vizzavona.

   Overnight: Refuge Onda, 1,430 m
10. 10
    DAY 10 · 12 km, 600 m of ascent

    Monte d’Oro flank and down to Vizzavona

    A climb to Bocca Porcu at 1,950 m under the walls of Monte d’Oro, 2,389 m, then a long forest descent to Vizzavona station. This is where the northern half officially ends.

    Overnight: Hotel in Vizzavona, 920 m
11. 11
    DAY 11 · 22 km, 1,000 m of ascent

    Into the south: Col de Verde

    The southern stages are gentler underfoot and longer in kilometres. We pass Capannelle and beech woods to the Col de Verde at 1,289 m, with a swim in the Fiumorbo on the way.

    Overnight: Refuge Col de Verde, 1,289 m
12. 12
    DAY 12 · 23 km, 900 m of ascent

    The Bavella needles and the finish at Conca

    A last long day through the red towers of the Aiguilles de Bavella and Paliri refuge, then a maquis descent to Conca at 252 m. The finish marker, the sea nearby and a transfer to Porto-Vecchio.

    Overnight: —