Kashmir Great Lakes

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

Seven lakes beyond seven passes.

The Kashmir Great Lakes trek strings together Himalayan alpine meadow and a chain of glacial lakes — Vishansar, Krishansar, Gadsar, Satsar and Gangbal beneath the pyramid of Harmukh. It is a full camping route with ponies carrying the group load, the greenest high trek in India and the exact opposite of arid Ladakh.

• The twin lakes Vishansar and Krishansar
• The Gadsar pass, 4,190 m
• Harmukh, 5,142 m, above Gangbal lake
• Gujjar herder camps on the meadows

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Briefing and packing

   Srinagar and Dal Lake

   We gather in Srinagar (1,585 m), check kit and weigh the duffels for the ponies, usually capped at 10 kg each. A shikara on Dal Lake in the evening and a wazwan supper.

   Overnight: Hotel in Srinagar
2. 02
   DAY 2 · A transfer and 4 km

   Drive to Sonamarg, camp at Shitkadi

   Three hours up the highway to Sonamarg (2,740 m) and camp on the Shitkadi meadow by the Sind river. An acclimatisation walk 300 m up the slope above camp after lunch.

   Overnight: Tents at Shitkadi, 2,740 m
3. 03
   DAY 3 · 11 km, 760 m of ascent

   Through pine forest to Nichnai

   A steep start up meadow, then fir forest and out into the open Nichnai valley (3,500 m). Some 11 km and 760 m of ascent, the first full working day.

   Overnight: Tents at Nichnai, 3,500 m
4. 04
   DAY 4 · 13 km, a 4,100 m pass

   Nichnai pass and Vishansar lake

   A steady climb to the Nichnai pass (4,100 m), then down into a broad valley to Vishansar lake (3,710 m). The lake holds trout and mist often settles on it at dusk. Around 13 km.

   Overnight: Tents by Vishansar
5. 05
   DAY 5 · 16 km, a 4,190 m pass

   The Gadsar pass, 4,190 m

   The high point of the route. Past Krishansar lake we climb the Gadsar La (4,190 m), from where both twin lakes are in view at once. Down to Gadsar lake (3,600 m) through flowering meadow, 16 km.

   Overnight: Tents by Gadsar
6. 06
   DAY 6 · 12 km, boulder fields

   To the scattered Satsar lakes

   Past the army checkpost at Maengandob we reach Satsar, a cluster of seven small lakes at 3,600 m. The last kilometre crosses big boulder fields and demands attention. About 12 km.

   Overnight: Tents by Satsar
7. 07
   DAY 7 · 13 km, a 4,080 m pass

   Zaj pass and the Gangbal lakes

   The finest day of the trek: the Zaj pass (4,080 m) puts you on a ridge with Nundkol and Gangbal laid out below the pyramid of Harmukh (5,142 m). Down to camp on the shore of Nundkol, around 13 km.

   Overnight: Tents by Nundkol
8. 08
   DAY 8 · 13 km, 1,400 m of descent

   Down to Naranag

   A long 1,400 m descent along a ridge and through forest to Naranag (2,130 m), with its eighth-century temple complex. Some 13 km and hard on the knees. Back to Srinagar in the evening.

   Overnight: Hotel in Srinagar
9. 09
   DAY 9 · Transfer

   Departure from Srinagar

   Breakfast, an optional short visit to the Shalimar and Nishat gardens, and the airport transfer, about half an hour.

   Overnight: —