Markha Valley · Kongmaru La

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

Ladakh by homestay and river crossing.

The Markha is the classic Ladakh trek and one of the few high routes where you sleep in family homes rather than a tent. It runs through Hemis National Park, fords the river a dozen times and finishes over the Kongmaru La at 5,260 m. Dry mountains, Buddhist monasteries and a fair chance of seeing bharal.

• The Kongmaru La, 5,260 m
• Nights in Ladakhi family homestays
• The fort and gompa at Tacha above the valley
• Kang Yatse, 6,400 m, seen from Nimaling

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Acclimatisation and rest

   Arrival in Leh, 3,500 m

   The flight from Delhi lands in the Indus valley at 3,500 m, so the altitude arrives all at once and the first day is deliberately idle. Plenty of water, no alcohol and a short walk through the old town in the evening.

   Overnight: Hotel in Leh
2. 02
   DAY 2 · Acclimatisation to 3,700 m

   Monasteries of the Indus valley

   Gentle acclimatisation with short drives: Thiksey with its Maitreya statue, Hemis, the largest monastery in Ladakh, and Shey. Little walking, but the whole day is spent between 3,400 and 3,700 m.

   Overnight: Hotel in Leh
3. 03
   DAY 3 · 7 km, a three-hour drive

   Chilling and the walk to Skiu

   Three hours by jeep along the Indus and the Zanskar to Chilling, the village of coppersmiths. Then 7 km on foot through the Zanskar gorge to Skiu (3,400 m), our first homestay and our first fords.

   Overnight: Homestay in Skiu
4. 04
   DAY 4 · 21 km, river crossings

   Skiu to Markha

   The longest day of the trek: 21 km up the Markha valley with a gradual gain to 3,760 m. The path fords the river several times, and we cross early before the day's meltwater arrives.

   Overnight: Homestay in Markha
5. 05
   DAY 5 · 12 km, 240 m of ascent

   Tacha fort and Hankar

   A short 12 km day to Hankar (4,000 m). On the way we climb to the ruined fort and gompa of Tacha, glued to a cliff above the valley. The afternoon is for rest and tea with the family.

   Overnight: Homestay in Hankar
6. 06
   DAY 6 · 13 km, 800 m of climbing

   Up to the Nimaling pastures

   The valley narrows and delivers us onto the Nimaling plateau (4,800 m), summer grazing for yak herds. Kang Yatse (6,400 m) stands directly above the camp. Around 800 m of ascent and a cold night.

   Overnight: Tented camp at Nimaling, 4,800 m
7. 07
   DAY 7 · 5,260 m pass, 17 km

   Kongmaru La and the gorge below

   Ninety minutes up to the Kongmaru La (5,260 m), prayer flags and a view across the Indus to the Karakoram. Then a steep 1,200 m descent through the narrow Chuskirmo gorge to Shang Sumdo and jeeps to Leh.

   Overnight: Hotel in Leh
8. 08
   DAY 8 · Reserve day

   Reserve day in Leh

   Held back in case of weather or high water at the fords. If it is not needed we drive to the Indus–Zanskar confluence and spend the afternoon at Leh palace and the apricot and pashmina market.

   Overnight: Hotel in Leh
9. 09
   DAY 9 · A drive to 5,359 m

   The Khardung La

   A drive up the Khardung La (5,359 m), among the highest motorable passes in the world, and down into the Nubra valley to the dunes at Hunder. A couple of hours on foot along the valley floor.

   Overnight: Hotel in Leh
10. 10
    DAY 10 · Transfer

    Departure from Leh

    A morning flight to Delhi: almost everything leaves Leh before nine because of the valley wind. The airport transfer takes fifteen minutes.

    Overnight: —