Aktru · Alpine Camp

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

Learn mountaineering in the North Chuya range.

Aktru is the oldest alpine camp in the Altai, at 2,150 m by the glacier snout, with cabins, a sauna and five summits within walking distance. A week of rock, snow and ice practice, then two ascents: Yubileynaya at 3,403 m and Kupol Tryokh Ozyor at 3,556 m, overlooking the North Chuya range. For anyone who wants to find out whether mountaineering is for them before committing to a 5,000-metre peak.

• Two summits in a week: Yubileynaya and Kupol
• Rock, snow and ice sessions
• The Blue Lake at 2,840 m
• Cabins and a sauna at camp

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Transfer 430 km

   The Chuya highway to Kurai

   We meet in Gorno-Altaysk at 300 m and drive eight hours along the Chuya highway over the Seminsky and Chike-Taman passes to Kurai at 1,600 m. First sight of the North Chuya range.

   Overnight: Guesthouse in Kurai
2. 02
   DAY 2 · 8 km, 400 m of ascent

   Into the alpine camp

   An hour on the GAZ-66 across the Kurai steppe and river fords to the drop point, then 8 km on foot to Aktru camp at 2,150 m. After lunch a walk to the snout of the Maly Aktru glacier.

   Overnight: Cabin, Aktru camp 2,150 m
3. 03
   DAY 3 · Rock training, 6 hours

   Rock day

   The crags by camp: belaying, knots, top-rope and lead climbing, abseiling. By evening everyone ties a figure-eight without thinking and abseils calmly.

   Overnight: Cabin, Aktru camp 2,150 m
4. 04
   DAY 4 · Ice training to 2,600 m

   Ice day on the Maly Aktru

   Onto the Maly Aktru glacier: crampons, ice axe, self-arrest, ice screws, roped travel. We climb to 2,600 m and are back for dinner.

   Overnight: Cabin, Aktru camp 2,150 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · Acclimatisation to 3,050 m

   Blue Lake and the Uchitel pass

   An acclimatisation walk to the Blue Lake at 2,840 m over the Bolshoy Aktru moraine, 4–5 hours. Those with energy left continue to the Uchitel pass at 3,050 m for the panorama.

   Overnight: Cabin, Aktru camp 2,150 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · Summit 3,403 m, 1,250 m of ascent

   Ascent of Yubileynaya

   Off at 5:00 along the trail to the Uchitel pass and up the ridge to Yubileynaya at 3,403 m, a grade 1B route. Easy rock in helmets and rope teams, 8–9 hours round trip.

   Overnight: Cabin, Aktru camp 2,150 m
7. 07
   DAY 7 · 700 m of ascent, 4 hours

   Rest, then a night at the Blue Lake

   A restful morning. After lunch we climb to the Blue Lake with tents so that tomorrow’s ascent of Kupol starts from 2,840 m rather than from camp.

   Overnight: Tent, Blue Lake 2,840 m
8. 08
   DAY 8 · Summit 3,556 m, 10 hours

   Kupol Tryokh Ozyor

   At 4:00 we cross the Bolshoy Aktru glacier roped and in crampons onto the broad snow dome at 3,556 m, grade 1B. Views of Aktru-Bash at 4,044 m and the Kurai steppe. Down to camp by evening.

   Overnight: Cabin, Aktru camp 2,150 m
9. 09
   DAY 9 · 8 km, transfer 430 km

   Out of the mountains and home

   An 8 km walk down to the pickup, the GAZ-66 to Kurai and the transfer to Gorno-Altaysk. We arrive late in the evening; flights the next day.

   Overnight: —