Belukha · Altai

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

Siberia’s highest peak via Akkem.

Belukha is the highest mountain in Siberia and the heart of the Altai: three days on foot from Tyungur to Akkem Lake, then the Tomsk camps, the Delone pass and the Big Berel saddle. A classic line with the crevassed Mensu glacier and a snow-and-ice summit ridge. Twelve days, half of them the approach and return through the taiga. For those who love long expeditions far from roads.

• 4,506 m, the highest point in Siberia
• Akkem Lake and the Belukha wall
• Delone pass and the Mensu glacier
• Horses carry the loads to the lake

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Transfer 450 km

   Gorno-Altaysk to Tyungur

   We meet in Gorno-Altaysk and drive seven hours along the Chuya highway and the Uimon valley to Tyungur at 850 m. Permits, then loads are sorted for the horses.

   Overnight: Guesthouse in Tyungur
2. 02
   DAY 2 · 20 km, 700 m of ascent

   Over the Kuzuyak pass

   From Tyungur over the Kuzuyak pass at 1,513 m to where the Akkem meets the Katun. About 20 km; the horses carry the loads and we walk light.

   Overnight: Tent, Tri Beryozy camp
3. 03
   DAY 3 · 18 km, 600 m of ascent

   Up the Akkem valley

   The trail follows the Akkem river through cedar taiga, 18 km to the camp by the Tekelyu waterfall at 1,700 m. First views of Belukha late in the day.

   Overnight: Tent, 1,700 m
4. 04
   DAY 4 · 12 km, 350 m of ascent

   Akkem Lake and the wall

   A short walk to Akkem Lake at 2,050 m and the rescue post. In the afternoon we visit the chapel by the glacier snout and sort gear for the upper section.

   Overnight: Tent, Akkem Lake 2,050 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · 950 m of ascent, 7 hours

   Up to the Tomsk camps

   Over the Akkem glacier moraine to the Tomsk camps at 3,000 m, 6–7 hours fully loaded. The rescuers’ hut is nearby, but we sleep in tents.

   Overnight: Tent, Tomsk camps 3,000 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · Training, acclimatisation to 3,300 m

   Ice school on the Akkem glacier

   A day of practice: front-pointing, ice screws, fixed lines, abseiling. We scout the approach to the Delone pass.

   Overnight: Tent, Tomsk camps 3,000 m
7. 07
   DAY 7 · Pass 3,400 m, 7 hours

   Delone pass and the Mensu glacier

   Up the snow-and-ice slope of the Delone pass at 3,400 m, up to 45 degrees on fixed ropes. Down onto the Mensu glacier and camp below the Big Berel saddle at 3,500 m.

   Overnight: Tent, Mensu glacier 3,500 m
8. 08
   DAY 8 · Summit 4,506 m, 10–12 hours

   Summit day on Belukha

   Away at 3:00. Over the Big Berel saddle at 3,520 m onto the ice ridge and the final rise of up to 40 degrees. Summit at 4,506 m by midday, then back down our own track to camp.

   Overnight: Tent, Mensu glacier 3,500 m
9. 09
   DAY 9 · Descent 1,450 m

   Reserve day, back over Delone

   Weather reserve. If the summit is done, we go back over the Delone pass to the Tomsk camps and on to Akkem Lake — a long day of up to 10 hours.

   Overnight: Tent, Akkem Lake 2,050 m
10. 10
    DAY 10 · 24 km, 600 m of descent

    Down the Akkem

    Down the valley to the camp at the Tekelyu waterfall or beyond, 22–25 km. Loads are back on the horses; we walk fast and talk a lot.

    Overnight: Tent, 1,500 m
11. 11
    DAY 11 · 20 km

    Kuzuyak and Tyungur

    The last leg over Kuzuyak to Tyungur, 20 km. Sauna, dinner, a bed.

    Overnight: Guesthouse in Tyungur
12. 12
    DAY 12 · Transfer 450 km

    Return to Gorno-Altaysk

    An early start and seven hours on the road. Flights from Gorno-Altaysk that evening or the next morning.

    Overnight: —