Bezengi · Alpine School

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

Alpine school beneath the Bezengi wall.

Bezengi is called the little Himalaya of the Caucasus: five 5,000-metre peaks and a thirteen-kilometre wall above a single valley. The alpine base at 2,180 m has operated since 1959, and people are still taught properly here. The programme is a week of training in the Teply Ugol cirque and two ascents: Gidan at 4,167 m and Ukyu at 4,346 m. For those who have hiked in the mountains and want to move from trekking to climbing.

• Gidan 4,167 m and Ukyu 4,346 m
• Camp in Teply Ugol at 3,200 m
• The Bezengi wall and Dykh-Tau next door
• The classic Soviet school of alpinism

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Transfer 220 km

   Into the Bezengi gorge

   We meet in Mineralnye Vody and drive via Nalchik up the Cherek Bezengisky gorge to the alpine base at 2,180 m. Five hours; briefing and gear in the evening.

   Overnight: Cabin, Bezengi base
2. 02
   DAY 2 · Rock training, 6 hours

   Rock and knots by the base

   The training crags two hundred metres from the cabins: belaying, climbing, abseiling, ascenders on fixed lines. An easy day at 2,200 m is acclimatisation too.

   Overnight: Cabin, Bezengi base
3. 03
   DAY 3 · 16 km, 650 m of ascent

   To the Bezengi glacier snout

   Up the valley to the snout of the Bezengi glacier and on to Baran-Kosh at 2,800 m. The thirteen-kilometre wall from Lyalver to Shkhara comes into full view.

   Overnight: Cabin, Bezengi base
4. 04
   DAY 4 · 1,000 m of ascent

   Up to Teply Ugol

   A steep trail into the Teply Ugol cirque at 3,200 m, 4–5 hours with tents and food. Camp by the Ukyu-Kosh hut, ringed by Gidan, Ukyu and Dumala.

   Overnight: Tent, Teply Ugol 3,200 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · Ice training to 3,600 m

   Snow and ice practice

   On the glacier below Ukyu: crampons, self-arrest, ice screws, rope teams, abseiling on fixed lines. Up to 3,600 m and back to camp for lunch.

   Overnight: Tent, Teply Ugol 3,200 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · Summit 4,167 m, 8 hours

   Ascent of Gidan

   Off at 4:00 for Gidan at 4,167 m by the grade 1B route: scree, a snow slope and an easy ridge. Five hours up, three down, lunch at camp.

   Overnight: Tent, Teply Ugol 3,200 m
7. 07
   DAY 7 · Rest

   Rest day in the cirque

   Sleep in, dry gear, go over yesterday’s mistakes. In the evening the plan for Ukyu, crampons and headtorches checked.

   Overnight: Tent, Teply Ugol 3,200 m
8. 08
   DAY 8 · Summit 4,346 m, 10 hours

   Ascent of Ukyu

   At 3:30 we set off for Ukyu at 4,346 m, grade 2A by the north-west ridge: snow up to 40 degrees and rock sections with alternating belays. About 10 hours round trip.

   Overnight: Tent, Teply Ugol 3,200 m
9. 09
   DAY 9 · Descent 1,000 m

   Back down to the base

   We break camp and descend to the base in three hours. Sauna, dinner at the café, a debrief and the Alpinist of Russia badge for those who have met the requirement.

   Overnight: Cabin, Bezengi base
10. 10
    DAY 10 · Transfer 220 km

    Departure to Mineralnye Vody

    Morning transfer via Nalchik, five hours. Flights after 15:00.

    Overnight: —