Photo: Michele Lana ↗THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL
Two summits, one step higher.
Five days in Zermatt to move from snow slope to rock ridge. The Breithorn (4,164 m) from the Klein Matterhorn lift gives your first altitude in two hours; Pollux (4,092 m) adds chains, scrambling and a proper night in a high hut. A logical step between Gran Paradiso and Mont Blanc for people who want to learn rather than merely arrive.
- The Breithorn, the most accessible 4,000 m peak in the Alps
- Pollux’s south-west ridge with its chains
- A night at the Guide d’Ayas hut, 3,394 m
- The Matterhorn in the window every day
With old friends or new ones
Join a group or arrange a separate departure for your own team. Before travelling, we get to know each other, discuss everyone's experience and find suitable dates. You can also prepare together.
DAY BY DAY
Your daily itinerary.
A provisional itinerary. Weather, group readiness and local conditions may change the order and length of the stages.
- DAY 1 · 700 m of ascent, 4 hours
Zermatt and the Trift path
We meet in Zermatt (1,608 m) in the morning and walk up to the Trift hut (2,337 m) and back, 700 m and four hours, a first test of pace and altitude. Kit fitting with the guides in the evening.
Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt - DAY 2 · Summit 4,164 m, 4 hours
The Breithorn from the Klein Matterhorn
The lift to the Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m), then across the Breithorn plateau and up a slope of up to 35° to the west summit at 4,164 m. Two to two and a half hours up, an hour and a half down. Back to Zermatt by lift for an early evening.
Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt - DAY 3 · Glacier crossing, 4 hours
Across to the Guide d’Ayas hut
Up to the Klein Matterhorn again, then over the Breithornpass (3,831 m) and down the Verra glacier on the Italian side to the Guide d’Ayas hut (3,394 m). About four hours, mostly downhill. An afternoon practising on the chains near the hut.
Overnight: Guide d’Ayas hut, 3,394 m - DAY 4 · Summit 4,092 m, 9 hours
Pollux and back to Zermatt
Away at 4.30 am. Across the glacier to the foot of the south-west ridge, then grade II rock with chains and a snow arête to the 4,092 m summit; 700 m of ascent in three and a half to four hours. Down the same way and back over the Breithornpass for the last Klein Matterhorn lift.
Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt - DAY 5 · Reserve
Reserve day and departure
A spare day for Pollux if the weather held us off. Otherwise a late breakfast, a debrief with the guides and the train out of Zermatt after lunch.
Overnight: —
Included in the estimated price
Hotel in Zermatt, 3 nights, breakfast
Guide d’Ayas hut, half board
IFMGA guides, 1:3 on the Breithorn, 1:2 on Pollux
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise lifts
Group climbing kit
Acclimatisation hike to Trift
Not included in the price
Flights to the meeting point
Personal travel insurance and visas
Personal equipment
Single-room supplements and personal expenses
Dinners in Zermatt
Personal kit hire (about CHF 60)
Täsch — Zermatt train
YOUR PREPARATION
Arrive ready for the route.
You need fitness for seven to eight hours with a pack and at least one glacier summit behind you. Ivan runs through fixed-rope technique with everyone in advance and helps match boots to crampons.
Prepare with IvanROUTE QUESTIONS
BEFORE WE MEET ON THE TRAIL
What to prepare in advance
- Footwear and warm layers for the specific mountain and season
- Sunglasses, gloves and spare mittens
- A headtorch and personal equipment from the guide's list
- For Kazbek: agreed crampons, harness and ice axe
Once we choose a date, we agree on the equipment list, meeting point and transfer time. Please wait until the programme is confirmed before booking flights.