Photo: Kevin Oetiker ↗THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL
The highest point in Switzerland.
The Dufourspitze is the second summit of the Alps after Mont Blanc and the highest in Switzerland. From the Monte Rosa hut the climb demands 1,750 m of ascent in one night and finishes on a rocky ridge above 4,500 m that wants steady feet and full attention. For climbers with a couple of four-thousanders behind them and the appetite for one long, serious day.
- The Dufourspitze ridge above 4,500 m
- The new Monte Rosa hut at 2,883 m
- Acclimatisation on the Breithorn
- Crossing the Gorner glacier
With old friends or new ones
Join a group or arrange a separate departure for your own team. Before travelling, we get to know each other, discuss everyone's experience and find suitable dates. You can also prepare together.
DAY BY DAY
Your daily itinerary.
A provisional itinerary. Weather, group readiness and local conditions may change the order and length of the stages.
- DAY 1 · Briefing
Gathering in Zermatt
We meet in Zermatt (1,608 m) in the afternoon. Kit check, a look at the week’s weather and sorting out rope teams. A gentle evening walk to Winkelmatten stretches the legs after the journey.
Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt - DAY 2 · Acclimatisation to 4,164 m
The Breithorn for acclimatisation
The lift to the Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m) and the Breithorn (4,164 m), two to two and a half hours up. A chance to test crampons, pace and how everyone feels above 4,000 m. Down by lift and an afternoon of rest in Zermatt.
Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt - DAY 3 · Glacier crossing, 3 hours
Over the Gorner glacier to the hut
The Gornergrat railway to Rotenboden (2,815 m). We drop to the Gorner glacier, cross it roped and climb the marked slabs to the Monte Rosa hut (2,883 m), about three hours. Sleep in the afternoon, dinner at 6 pm.
Overnight: Monte Rosa hut, 2,883 m - DAY 4 · Summit 4,634 m, 12–13 hours
The long day on the Dufourspitze
Off at 1 am. Up the Monte Rosa glacier, across the plateau and the Satteltole to the Sattel (4,359 m), then 300 m of grade II rock ridge on crampons to the 4,634 m summit. 1,750 m of ascent, six to seven hours up and five back down to the hut.
Overnight: Monte Rosa hut, 2,883 m - DAY 5 · Descent, 3 hours
Descent to Zermatt, reserve
A late breakfast, the return crossing of the Gorner glacier to Rotenboden and the train down. If weather has delayed the summit, this day is held for the climb and the descent moves to departure morning.
Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt - DAY 6 · Departure
Leaving Zermatt
A free morning for a sauna, coffee on the Bahnhofstrasse and a look at photos and the next objectives. Trains to Täsch and Visp in the afternoon.
Overnight: —
Included in the estimated price
Hotel in Zermatt, 3 nights, breakfast
Monte Rosa hut, 2 nights, half board
IFMGA guides, 1:2 on the Dufourspitze
Klein Matterhorn lift and Gornergrat railway
Group climbing kit
Route briefing and weather advice
Not included in the price
Flights to the meeting point
Personal travel insurance and visas
Personal equipment
Single-room supplements and personal expenses
Dinners in Zermatt
Personal kit hire
Single room supplement
YOUR PREPARATION
Arrive ready for the route.
At least two glacier summits above 4,000 m and endurance for a 12–14 hour day. A month before, Ivan brings the group together for a training weekend to check pace and crampon work on rock.
Prepare with IvanROUTE QUESTIONS
BEFORE WE MEET ON THE TRAIL
What to prepare in advance
- Footwear and warm layers for the specific mountain and season
- Sunglasses, gloves and spare mittens
- A headtorch and personal equipment from the guide's list
- For Kazbek: agreed crampons, harness and ice axe
Once we choose a date, we agree on the equipment list, meeting point and transfer time. Please wait until the programme is confirmed before booking flights.