Eiger · Mittellegi Ridge

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

The ridge above the North Face.

The Mittellegi ridge is the most elegant way up the Eiger: a narrow rock blade hanging over the North Face, with a crux on thick fixed ropes. The approach is through the window of the Eismeer station on the Jungfrau railway, the night is in the tiny Mittellegi hut at 3,355 m and the descent follows the south ridge to the Mönchsjoch. For experienced alpinists ready for twelve hours of exposed work.

• The Mittellegi hut perched on the ridge
• Stepping out of the Eismeer tunnel onto the glacier
• The fixed ropes on the crux step
• The Mönch for acclimatisation

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Rock, 5 hours

   Grindelwald beneath the North Face

   We meet in Grindelwald (1,034 m) in the morning. After a kit check, half a day on the crags at Grosse Scheidegg or near Eigergletscher in boots and crampons, where the guides assess everyone’s technique. A forecast review in the evening.

   Overnight: Hotel in Grindelwald
2. 02
   DAY 2 · Acclimatisation to 3,700 m

   Jungfraujoch and the Mönchsjoch hut

   The railway via Eigergletscher to the Jungfraujoch (3,454 m). A prepared track across the glacier leads to the Mönchsjoch hut (3,650 m) in 45 minutes. A short acclimatisation walk onto the Ewigschneefeld in the afternoon and an early night.

   Overnight: Mönchsjoch hut, 3,650 m
3. 03
   DAY 3 · Summit 4,107 m, 6 hours

   The Mönch by the south-east ridge

   Off at 5 am. The Mönch’s south-east ridge (4,107 m): grade II–III rock and a narrow summit snow crest, two and a half to three hours up. Down to the Jungfraujoch and the train to Grindelwald by lunchtime. Evening of rest.

   Overnight: Hotel in Grindelwald
4. 04
   DAY 4 · Rest

   Rest day and the decision

   A full rest day in Grindelwald. The guides confirm the go-day from the forecast and the state of the ridge: the Mittellegi wants dry rock and little wind. Packs of no more than 5 kg and an early dinner.

   Overnight: Hotel in Grindelwald
5. 05
   DAY 5 · Approach, 3 hours

   Through the Eismeer window to the Mittellegi hut

   The train to the Eismeer station (3,160 m) inside the mountain. Through the service tunnel we step out onto the glacier, abseil a short step and climb rock and snow for two to three hours to the Mittellegi hut (3,355 m), which sleeps thirty. Dinner, a look at the ridge and lights out at 7.30 pm.

   Overnight: Mittellegi hut, 3,355 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · Summit 3,967 m, 12–14 hours

   The Eiger by the Mittellegi ridge

   Off at 4.30 am, one to one with your guide. The narrow ridge with grade III–IV climbing, the 80 m crux on fixed ropes and a final snow crest to the 3,967 m summit in five to six hours. Descent by the south ridge over the Eigerjoch to the Mönchsjoch hut and the Jungfraujoch, twelve to fourteen hours in all, and the evening train to Grindelwald.

   Overnight: —