Elbrus · North Side

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

Wild Elbrus, no lifts.

From the north, Elbrus looks much as Emmanuel’s expedition saw it in 1829: the meadow at Dzhily-Su, mineral springs, the so-called German airfield and not a single lift. Every metre from 2,500 m to the East Summit is on foot, with two camps and a proper snow school. A route for those who want an honest expedition rather than a ride up.

• East Summit, 5,621 m
• Camp at the Lenz Rocks, 4,600 m
• Springs and the Sultan waterfall at Dzhily-Su
• No lifts, no snowcats

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Transfer 60 km

   Kislovodsk, briefing and gear

   We meet in Mineralnye Vody and drive to Kislovodsk at 800 m. Gear goes out on the floor, packs get weighed, missing items get bought.

   Overnight: Guesthouse in Kislovodsk
2. 02
   DAY 2 · Transfer 90 km, 2-hour walk

   By 4x4 to Dzhily-Su

   Four hours across the Bermamyt plateau and dirt track to Dzhily-Su at 2,400 m. We pitch base camp on the Emmanuel Meadow at 2,500 m and walk to the springs and the Sultan waterfall in the evening.

   Overnight: Tent, base camp 2,500 m
3. 03
   DAY 3 · 12 km, 800 m of ascent

   Acclimatisation to the German airfield

   A round trip across the German airfield plateau at 2,900 m to the stone mushrooms at 3,300 m. About 12 km and 800 m of ascent, back to base camp.

   Overnight: Tent, base camp 2,500 m
4. 04
   DAY 4 · Acclimatisation to 3,800 m

   Load carry to the North Refuge

   We carry part of the gear and food to the North Refuge at 3,800 m, 5–6 hours over moraine. The load stays up, we sleep low — the classic saw-tooth acclimatisation.

   Overnight: Tent, base camp 2,500 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · 1,300 m of ascent, 6 hours

   Move up to camp 3,800

   We repeat the climb, now with the remaining kit. Camp goes up by the North Refuge on the moraine, with the glacier starting a hundred metres away.

   Overnight: Tent, camp 3,800 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · Acclimatisation to 4,600 m

   Snow school and the Lenz Rocks

   Morning on the glacier: crampons, roped travel, self-arrest. In the afternoon we climb to the lower Lenz Rocks at 4,600 m and return to the tents.

   Overnight: Tent, camp 3,800 m
7. 07
   DAY 7 · 800 m of ascent

   High camp at the Lenz Rocks

   We carry the summit tents to 4,600 m, 4–5 hours roped up. Afternoon is rest only, melting snow, early dinner.

   Overnight: Tent, high camp 4,600 m
8. 08
   DAY 8 · Summit 5,621 m, 12–14 hours

   The East Summit

   Away at 3:00. Past the upper Lenz Rocks at 4,800 m, then a gentle but long slope to the crater and the East Summit at 5,621 m. Six to eight hours up, then straight down to camp 3,800.

   Overnight: Tent, camp 3,800 m
9. 09
   DAY 9 · Descent 1,300 m, transfer 90 km

   Reserve and descent to Dzhily-Su

   Weather reserve. If the summit is done, we descend to base camp, soak in the warm mineral spring and drive to Kislovodsk.

   Overnight: Guesthouse in Kislovodsk
10. 10
    DAY 10 · Transfer 60 km

    Departure from Mineralnye Vody

    Breakfast and a short transfer to the airport. Flights after midday.

    Overnight: —