Elbrus · South Route

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

A first major high-altitude experience.

The highest point in Europe by its most logical line: through Azau, the Garabashi lift station and the Pastukhov Rocks. The south side of Elbrus offers something almost no other big peak does — cable cars to 3,850 m, heated refuges and an unhurried acclimatisation schedule. We allow nine days to climb without rushing and keep a weather reserve. For those ready for their first serious 5,000-metre summit.

• 5,642 m — the roof of Europe
• Acclimatisation on Cheget and at the observatory
• Nights in refuges at 3,900 m
• Optional snowcat lift to the Pastukhov Rocks

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Transfer 180 km

   Meeting and drive to Elbrus valley

   We meet in Mineralnye Vody and drive three hours up the Baksan valley to Terskol at 2,100 m. In the evening we check gear and sort out rentals.

   Overnight: Hotel in Terskol
2. 02
   DAY 2 · Acclimatisation to 3,050 m

   Cheget: first walk to 3,000

   We walk from Cheget village to the top lift station at 3,050 m, roughly 900 m of ascent. The ridge gives a full view of Elbrus — a good moment to trace the route.

   Overnight: Hotel in Terskol
3. 03
   DAY 3 · 14 km, 1,000 m of ascent

   Devichyi Kosy falls and the observatory

   Trail from Terskol past the Devichyi Kosy waterfall at 2,800 m to the observatory at 3,100 m. About 14 km and 1,000 m of ascent at an easy pace, with a talk on altitude sickness.

   Overnight: Hotel in Terskol
4. 04
   DAY 4 · Acclimatisation to 4,100 m

   Up to the refuge at 3,900

   Cable cars from Azau to Garabashi at 3,847 m, then a short walk to the refuge. After lunch a brief outing to 4,100 m near the old Priyut 11 and first steps in crampons.

   Overnight: Refuge, 3,900 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · Acclimatisation to 4,700 m

   Pastukhov Rocks and snow school

   We climb to the Pastukhov Rocks at 4,700 m in 4–5 hours. On the way down we practise self-arrest, rope work and crampon technique on hard névé.

   Overnight: Refuge, 3,900 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · Rest, 2 hours of walking

   Rest day before the summit

   Sleep, drink, eat. A short stroll to 4,000 m to stay loose, gear check and an early night: we leave in the dark.

   Overnight: Refuge, 3,900 m
7. 07
   DAY 7 · Summit 5,642 m, 12–14 hours

   Summit day, West Peak

   We set off at 2:00, with an optional snowcat to 4,700 m. The Traverse, the saddle at 5,300 m and the final rise to 5,642 m — usually 8–10 hours up and 4 down.

   Overnight: Refuge, 3,900 m
8. 08
   DAY 8 · Descent to 2,100 m

   Reserve day and descent

   A spare day in case of bad weather. If the summit is done, we ride the lifts down to Azau, clean up and have dinner in Terskol.

   Overnight: Hotel in Terskol
9. 09
   DAY 9 · Transfer 180 km

   Back to Mineralnye Vody

   Morning transfer to the airport, about three hours. Book flights after 14:00.

   Overnight: —