Photo: Secret Travel Guide ↗THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL
A rock ridge to the top of Austria.
The Grossglockner is Austria’s highest point and the Stüdlgrat its finest line: 600 m of clean ridge with climbing up to grade III, pegged and fitted with a few fixed ropes. We go up the ridge and descend the normal route past the Erzherzog-Johann hut, the highest in Austria. A short, dense programme for people who prefer rock to glacier.
- The Stüdlgrat, 600 m of grade III ridge
- The Erzherzog-Johann hut at 3,454 m
- Hohe Tauern National Park
- Up and down by different routes
With old friends or new ones
Join a group or arrange a separate departure for your own team. Before travelling, we get to know each other, discuss everyone's experience and find suitable dates. You can also prepare together.
DAY BY DAY
Your daily itinerary.
A provisional itinerary. Weather, group readiness and local conditions may change the order and length of the stages.
- DAY 1 · 900 m of ascent, 3 hours
Kals and the walk to the Stüdl hut
We meet in Lienz in the morning and drive to Kals (1,325 m) and the Lucknerhaus (1,918 m). The path up the Ködnitz valley reaches the Stüdl hut (2,802 m) in about three hours, 900 m of ascent. A short rock warm-up on the slabs by the hut after lunch.
Overnight: Stüdl hut, 2,802 m - DAY 2 · Summit 3,798 m, 8–9 hours
The Stüdlgrat to the summit
Away at 4 am. An hour across the Teischnitz glacier to the foot of the ridge at 3,200 m, then 600 m of climbing: easy blocks low down, grade III cruxes with pegs and fixed ropes higher up. Summit at 3,798 m by 10–11 am, then down the Glocknerleitl to the Erzherzog-Johann hut (3,454 m).
Overnight: Erzherzog-Johann hut, 3,454 m - DAY 3 · 1,500 m of descent, 4 hours
Descent by the Ködnitz glacier
A slow sunrise at Austria’s highest hut. Down the Ködnitz glacier to the Stüdl hut and on to the Lucknerhaus, about four hours and 1,500 m of descent. Dinner in Kals in the evening.
Overnight: Guesthouse in Kals - DAY 4 · Reserve, transfer
Reserve day and departure
In the normal case, a morning in Kals and a transfer to Lienz by 11 am. If bad weather delayed the climb, this becomes ridge day with descent and departure late in the evening.
Overnight: —
Included in the estimated price
Guesthouse in Kals, 1 night, breakfast
Stüdl and Erzherzog-Johann huts, half board
IFMGA guides, 1:2 on the ridge
Transfers Lienz — Kals — Lucknerhaus
Group climbing kit
Rock warm-up near the Stüdl hut
Not included in the price
Flights to the meeting point
Personal travel insurance and visas
Personal equipment
Single-room supplements and personal expenses
Toll and parking at the Lucknerhaus
Personal kit hire
Travel to Lienz
YOUR PREPARATION
Arrive ready for the route.
Confident grade III climbing in mountain boots and at least one glacier summit are required. Ivan runs two rock days with the group beforehand and gauges everyone’s comfort with exposure.
Prepare with IvanROUTE QUESTIONS
BEFORE WE MEET ON THE TRAIL
What to prepare in advance
- Footwear and warm layers for the specific mountain and season
- Sunglasses, gloves and spare mittens
- A headtorch and personal equipment from the guide's list
- For Kazbek: agreed crampons, harness and ice axe
Once we choose a date, we agree on the equipment list, meeting point and transfer time. Please wait until the programme is confirmed before booking flights.