Island Peak · Imja TsePhoto: Geetangey
Mountaineering

Island Peak · Imja Tse

A first 6,000er beyond Base Camp.

Nepal · Khumbu18 days / 17 nights4–8 participantsLevel 4/5

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

A first 6,000er beyond Base Camp.

Island Peak, or Imja Tse, rises among glaciers below Lhotse and is widely considered the most logical first 6,000-metre summit: the walk-in along the Everest Base Camp trail provides acclimatisation, and the peak itself takes one day of fixed ropes and crampons. We go via Kala Patthar, then Chhukung and base camp at 5,087 m. Eighteen days for those ready to move from trekking to real altitude.

  • 6,189 m beneath the Lhotse face
  • Kala Patthar and Everest Base Camp on the way
  • The hundred-metre headwall on fixed ropes
  • The Chhukung valley and Imja lakes

With old friends or new ones

Join a group or arrange a separate departure for your own team. Before travelling, we get to know each other, discuss everyone's experience and find suitable dates. You can also prepare together.

KathmanduLuklaNamche BazaarKala PattharChhukungIsland Peak Base CampIsland Peak
SEASONApril — May, October — November
DISTANCESummit 6,189 m, around 150 km on foot

DAY BY DAY

Your daily itinerary.

A provisional itinerary. Weather, group readiness and local conditions may change the order and length of the stages.

  1. DAY 1 · Preparation

    Kathmandu, expedition start

    Arrival in Kathmandu at 1,400 m. Gear check with the guide, rental boots tried on, permits arranged.

    Overnight: Hotel in Kathmandu
  2. DAY 2 · 8 km, 3 hours

    Lukla to Phakding

    Flight to Lukla at 2,840 m and a descent along the Dudh Kosi to Phakding at 2,610 m. Eight kilometres to loosen the legs.

    Overnight: Lodge in Phakding
  3. DAY 3 · 11 km, 830 m of ascent

    Namche Bazaar

    Through Monjo and the park gate, then the steep climb to Namche Bazaar at 3,440 m. About 11 km and 830 m of ascent.

    Overnight: Lodge in Namche Bazaar
  4. DAY 4 · Acclimatisation to 3,880 m

    Acclimatisation: Khumjung

    Up to the Everest View hotel at 3,880 m and on to Khumjung and its monastery. Back to Namche for the night.

    Overnight: Lodge in Namche Bazaar
  5. DAY 5 · 10 km, 5 hours

    Tengboche

    A traverse to Phunki Tenga and the 600 m climb to the Tengboche monastery at 3,860 m. Evening prayers beneath Ama Dablam.

    Overnight: Lodge in Tengboche
  6. DAY 6 · 11 km, 550 m of ascent

    Dingboche

    Via Pangboche to Dingboche at 4,410 m, 11 km. The last trees fall behind.

    Overnight: Lodge in Dingboche
  7. DAY 7 · Acclimatisation to 5,000 m

    Nangkar Tshang

    An acclimatisation climb of Nangkar Tshang to 5,000 m, back in Dingboche for lunch.

    Overnight: Lodge in Dingboche
  8. DAY 8 · 8 km, 530 m of ascent

    Lobuche

    Via Thukla and the memorial pass at 4,830 m to Lobuche at 4,940 m. Eight kilometres, 5 hours.

    Overnight: Lodge in Lobuche
  9. DAY 9 · 12 km, 7–8 hours

    Everest Base Camp

    To Gorak Shep at 5,164 m and on to Everest Base Camp at 5,364 m over the Khumbu moraine. Back to Gorak Shep by evening.

    Overnight: Lodge in Gorak Shep
  10. DAY 10 · Kala Patthar 5,644 m, 18 km

    Kala Patthar and down to Dingboche

    Sunrise on Kala Patthar at 5,644 m, then a long descent via Lobuche and Thukla to Dingboche at 4,410 m.

    Overnight: Lodge in Dingboche
  11. DAY 11 · 5 km, 3 hours

    Chhukung

    A short walk up the Imja valley to Chhukung at 4,730 m, 5 km. Climbing gear checked after lunch.

    Overnight: Lodge in Chhukung
  12. DAY 12 · Acclimatisation to 5,550 m

    Chhukung Ri

    Up Chhukung Ri at 5,550 m for the view of Island Peak and the Lhotse south face. Back to the lodge to rest.

    Overnight: Lodge in Chhukung
  13. DAY 13 · 8 km, training

    Island Peak Base Camp

    Along the Imja glacier to base camp at 5,087 m, 3–4 hours. Fixed-rope training after lunch: jumar, abseil, crampons.

    Overnight: Tent, base camp 5,087 m
  14. DAY 14 · Summit 6,189 m, 12–14 hours

    Summit day on Island Peak

    Away at 1:00. A rock gully to the ridge, the glacier roped up and the hundred-metre headwall of up to 50 degrees on fixed ropes to the summit at 6,189 m. Eight to nine hours up, then down to base camp.

    Overnight: Tent, base camp 5,087 m
  15. DAY 15 · 18 km, 1,150 m of descent

    Reserve and descent to Pangboche

    Reserve day for the summit. If it is done, we descend via Chhukung and Dingboche to Pangboche at 3,930 m.

    Overnight: Lodge in Pangboche
  16. DAY 16 · 15 km, 6 hours

    Namche Bazaar

    Via Tengboche back to Namche at 3,440 m, about 15 km. Bakery, shower, first beer.

    Overnight: Lodge in Namche Bazaar
  17. DAY 17 · 18 km, 6 hours

    Lukla

    Down to Lukla, 18 km. A farewell dinner with porters and guides.

    Overnight: Lodge in Lukla
  18. DAY 18 · Flight, transfer

    Flight out and home

    Morning flight to Kathmandu or Ramechhap, transfer to the hotel and an evening departure. If the Lukla flight is delayed, an extra Kathmandu night is arranged.

    Overnight:
INCLUDED

Included in the estimated price

Hotel in Kathmandu, 3 nights

Lodges on the trek and tents at base camp

Three meals a day on the route

Certified climbing guide per 3 participants

Flights Kathmandu — Lukla — Kathmandu

NMA climbing permit, Sagarmatha park and municipality fees

Porters, group ropes, tents, kitchen

PAID SEPARATELY

Not included in the price

Flights to the meeting point

Personal travel insurance and visas

Personal equipment

Single-room supplements and personal expenses

Rental of 6,000 m boots, crampons, harness

Meals in Kathmandu

Helicopter evacuation, to be covered by insurance

YOUR PREPARATION

Arrive ready for the route.

You need experience sleeping above 4,000 m and basic crampon skills; jumar and fixed-rope work we practise at base camp. Ivan runs two rock-and-ice sessions before the expedition.

Prepare with Ivan

ROUTE QUESTIONS

BEFORE WE MEET ON THE TRAIL

What to prepare in advance

  • Footwear and warm layers for the specific mountain and season
  • Sunglasses, gloves and spare mittens
  • A headtorch and personal equipment from the guide's list
  • For Kazbek: agreed crampons, harness and ice axe

Once we choose a date, we agree on the equipment list, meeting point and transfer time. Please wait until the programme is confirmed before booking flights.