K2 Base Camp · Baltoro Glacier

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

The hardest walk in the Karakoram.

The Baltoro is a 63-kilometre glacier that leads to the foot of the second-highest mountain on earth. Between Paiju and Concordia you walk under the Trango Towers, Muztagh Tower, the Gasherbrums and Broad Peak, and at Concordia itself four eight-thousanders meet. A fully tented trek with Balti porters and not a single lodge.

• Concordia, ringed by four eight-thousanders
• K2, 8,611 m, from base camp
• The granite Trango Towers above the glacier
• The Gilkey memorial on the moraine below K2

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Briefing

   Islamabad, the group meets

   We arrive in Islamabad and rest off the flight. A first briefing in the evening on the route, national park rules and the logistics of the Skardu flight, which hangs on mountain weather.

   Overnight: Hotel in Islamabad
2. 02
   DAY 2 · Flight and acclimatisation

   Flight to Skardu

   An hour's flight past Nanga Parbat (8,126 m) into Skardu (2,230 m). If the flight is cancelled we take the Karakoram Highway instead, twenty hours of driving, and the programme carries slack for exactly this.

   Overnight: Hotel in Skardu
3. 03
   DAY 3 · Permits and packing

   Preparation and paperwork in Skardu

   A day for permits, food shopping and dividing loads into duffels, with personal bags strictly capped under the porters' weight rules. In the afternoon a walk up to Skardu fort for acclimatisation.

   Overnight: Hotel in Skardu
4. 04
   DAY 4 · A 7–8 hour drive

   Jeeps to Askole

   Seven to eight hours along the Shigar and Braldu rivers, the final stretch cut into a cliff above the water. Askole (3,050 m) is the last village; beyond it lie twelve days with no roads and no signal.

   Overnight: Tents at Askole, 3,050 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · 20 km along the river

   Askole to Jhola

   The first walking day: 20 km along the Braldu over stony terraces, crossing the snout of the Biafo glacier. Hot, dusty and almost flat. Jhola camp sits at 3,200 m beside a suspension bridge.

   Overnight: Tents at Jhola, 3,200 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · 20 km, 250 m of ascent

   Jhola to Paiju

   Another 20 km up the valley, and by afternoon Paiju Peak (6,610 m) shows itself. Paiju camp (3,450 m) is the last place with trees and running water, where the porters bake bread for the whole trek.

   Overnight: Tents at Paiju, 3,450 m
7. 07
   DAY 7 · Rest and acclimatisation

   Rest day at Paiju

   A rest day required by the porters' agreement: they prepare supplies while we acclimatise on a 300 m walk to the viewpoint over the Baltoro snout. Crampons are checked before we step onto ice.

   Overnight: Tents at Paiju
8. 08
   DAY 8 · 13 km of moraine

   Onto the Baltoro, Khoburtse

   We step onto the Baltoro moraine and spend the day on rubble over ice. On the left rise the Trango Towers, the Nameless Tower a kilometre of vertical granite. Camp at Khoburtse, 3,930 m.

   Overnight: Tents at Khoburtse, 3,930 m
9. 09
   DAY 9 · 8 km, 120 m of ascent

   Urdukas, the balcony over the glacier

   A short stage to Urdukas (4,050 m), a grassy shelf on the left flank of the glacier and the only green on the whole Baltoro. Trango and Cathedral stand in full view; we pitch camp early.

   Overnight: Tents at Urdukas, 4,050 m
10. 10
    DAY 10 · 14 km on the glacier

    Urdukas to Goro II

    A full day up the middle of the glacier between penitentes and meltwater channels. The Muztagh Tower (7,276 m), reckoned unclimbable in the 1950s, comes into view. Goro II camp sits on bare ice at 4,380 m.

    Overnight: Tents at Goro II, 4,380 m
11. 11
    DAY 11 · 12 km, 270 m of ascent

    Concordia

    Six hours on ice and the glacier opens into the vast junction of the Baltoro and the Godwin-Austen. From Concordia (4,650 m) K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum IV are visible at once.

    Overnight: Tents at Concordia, 4,650 m
12. 12
    DAY 12 · 16 km out and back, 5,150 m

    K2 Base Camp and the Gilkey memorial

    A day up the Godwin-Austen: 8 km each way to K2 Base Camp at 5,150 m. We walk up to the Gilkey memorial, a cairn hung with plaques for those lost on the mountain, then return to Concordia.

    Overnight: Tents at Concordia
13. 13
    DAY 13 · 10 km out and back

    Broad Peak Base Camp

    A shorter day out to Broad Peak Base Camp (4,850 m) and onto the moraine below Gasherbrum IV. It doubles as spare capacity if weather stopped us short of K2 the day before.

    Overnight: Tents at Concordia
14. 14
    DAY 14 · 26 km, 600 m of descent

    Concordia to Urdukas

    The return begins on our own tracks but moves faster: one day covers what took two on the way in. Around 26 km down the glacier with 600 m of descent, a long day on the feet.

    Overnight: Tents at Urdukas
15. 15
    DAY 15 · 21 km, 600 m of descent

    Urdukas to Paiju

    Off the ice and back onto moraine, reaching Paiju (3,450 m) by evening. After ten days on rock and ice, grass and trees look faintly unreal.

    Overnight: Tents at Paiju
16. 16
    DAY 16 · 32 km in a day

    Paiju to Askole

    The long final stage: 32 km along the Braldu with one halt at Jhola. We start before light to clear the hot part of the valley by noon. In Askole, the first wash from a bucket.

    Overnight: Tents at Askole
17. 17
    DAY 17 · A 7–8 hour drive

    Back to Skardu

    Jeeps back down the Braldu to Skardu, seven to eight hours. We settle up with the porters, take a shower and have supper on the bank of the Indus while going over the route.

    Overnight: Hotel in Skardu
18. 18
    DAY 18 · Flight, transfer

    Flight to Islamabad, departure

    The morning flight to Islamabad, or the Karakoram Highway if the weather closes it. From there a transfer to the airport, or to a hotel for anyone staying the night.

    Overnight: —