Kazbek · Maili Glacier

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

A 5,000er in tents, no crowds.

Few climb Kazbek from the Russian side: through the Karmadon gorge, past hot springs and up the Maili glacier to the plateau below Peak OZhD. There is no crowded meteo hut and no queue on the trail — instead a proper expedition with three camps and roped travel on a crevassed glacier. Nine days to reach 5,054 m and come back changed.

• 5,054 m by the rarely climbed north side
• Karmadon hot springs at 2,300 m
• The plateau below Peak OZhD at 4,200 m
• Dargavs, the city of the dead, on the way back

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Preparation

   Vladikavkaz and gear check

   We meet at Vladikavkaz airport at 700 m. Gear is laid out, group loads shared, permits checked.

   Overnight: Hotel in Vladikavkaz
2. 02
   DAY 2 · 10 km, 800 m of ascent

   Karmadon and the hot springs

   Drive into the Karmadon gorge at 1,500 m, then on foot along the Genaldon to the hot springs at 2,300 m. Four to five hours of walking and a soak in the evening.

   Overnight: Tent, camp 2,300 m
3. 03
   DAY 3 · Acclimatisation to 3,100 m

   Moraine of the Maili glacier

   A move to the moraine below the snout of the Maili glacier at 2,700 m, about 3–4 hours. After lunch we scout the trail to 3,100 m, fixing a rope on the scree section.

   Overnight: Tent, camp 2,700 m
4. 04
   DAY 4 · 800 m of ascent, 6 hours

   Camp at 3,500 m

   A trail over glacier-polished slabs and broken rock with fixed ropes, 5–6 hours. Camp on a rocky shelf above the glacier, water from a stream.

   Overnight: Tent, camp 3,500 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · 700 m of ascent, 7 hours

   Up to the plateau below OZhD

   Roped up across the crevassed glacier to the Kazbek plateau at 4,200 m, 6–7 hours. Camp goes on the moraine below Peak OZhD with the whole summit line in view.

   Overnight: Tent, high camp 4,200 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · Acclimatisation to 4,500 m

   Ice training and rest

   A short morning outing to 4,500 m with ice training: screws, abseiling on fixed lines, self-arrest. Afternoon rest and an early night.

   Overnight: Tent, high camp 4,200 m
7. 07
   DAY 7 · Summit 5,054 m, 11–12 hours

   Summit day on Kazbek

   Away at 4:00. Across the plateau and up the rise below the summit ridge, up to 35 degrees in places with fixed ropes. About 7 hours to the top at 5,054 m and 4–5 hours back to camp.

   Overnight: Tent, high camp 4,200 m
8. 08
   DAY 8 · Descent 1,900 m

   Reserve and descent to the springs

   Weather reserve. If the summit is done, we descend in one long day to the hot springs at 2,300 m and back into the water.

   Overnight: Tent, camp 2,300 m
9. 09
   DAY 9 · 8 km of descent, transfer 60 km

   Dargavs and the return

   Down to the road, a stop at the medieval necropolis of Dargavs and back to Vladikavkaz by evening. Flights the next morning or late that night.

   Overnight: —