Matterhorn · Hörnli Ridge

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

The most recognisable mountain on earth.

The Hörnli ridge is the line of the 1865 first ascent and still the only sensible way up the Matterhorn: 1,200 m of grade III scrambling from the Hörnli hut, iced slopes near the top and a strict turnaround time. We give four days of preparation and acclimatisation so that everyone reaches the summit day paired with a guide and thinking clearly.

• The Hörnli ridge and the Solvay hut at 4,003 m
• 1:1 guiding on summit day
• Breithorn, Pollux and the Riffelhorn as preparation
• A night at the Hörnli hut, 3,260 m

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Grade II–III rock, 5 hours

   Zermatt and the Riffelhorn rock

   We meet in the morning, take the Gornergrat train to Rotenboden and spend half a day on the Riffelhorn (2,928 m), short grade II–III routes in mountain boots. The guides watch how everyone moves on rock and discuss readiness.

   Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt
2. 02
   DAY 2 · Summit 4,164 m, 6 hours

   The Breithorn and the Guide d’Ayas hut

   From the Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m) we climb the Breithorn (4,164 m), then cross the Breithornpass and descend the Verra glacier to the Guide d’Ayas hut (3,394 m). Around six hours at altitude and a first night above 3,000 m.

   Overnight: Guide d’Ayas hut, 3,394 m
3. 03
   DAY 3 · Summit 4,092 m, 9 hours

   Pollux and back to Zermatt

   Pollux’s south-west ridge (4,092 m): chained rock and a snow arête, three and a half to four hours. It is the Matterhorn in miniature: rock on crampons, short-roping, pace. Back via the Klein Matterhorn by evening.

   Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt
4. 04
   DAY 4 · Rest

   Rest and the go decision

   A recovery day in Zermatt. In the morning the guides check the forecast and the state of the Hörnli ridge and confirm the summit day. A light walk, an early dinner and a final pack of no more than 6 kg.

   Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt
5. 05
   DAY 5 · 700 m of ascent, 2 hours

   Schwarzsee to the Hörnli hut

   The lift to Schwarzsee (2,583 m) and a two-hour walk to the Hörnli hut (3,260 m). In the afternoon each guide takes their client up the first 100 m of the ridge so that nobody is route-finding in the dark. Dinner at 6.30 pm, alarm at 3.30 am.

   Overnight: Hörnli hut, 3,260 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · Summit 4,478 m, 9–11 hours

   The Matterhorn by the Hörnli ridge

   Off at 4 am, one to one with your guide. The rock ridge to the Solvay hut (4,003 m) takes two and a half to three hours, then the Moseley slabs, the fixed ropes on the Shoulder and the iced slope to the 4,478 m summit around 8.30 am. The turnaround time at Solvay is strict. Four to five hours down to the Hörnli hut and on to Schwarzsee.

   Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt
7. 07
   DAY 7 · Reserve

   Reserve day and departure

   If weather pushed the summit back a day, descent and departure fall on this morning. Otherwise a late breakfast, a debrief with the guides and departure from Zermatt after lunch.

   Overnight: —