Mont Blanc · Goûter Route

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

The roof of the Alps, the classic way.

Mont Blanc is the highest point of the Alps and Western Europe, and the Goûter route remains the most logical way up it. We build the week around two acclimatisation days above Chamonix, a night in the Goûter hut at 3,835 m and a pre-dawn start onto the Bosses ridge. It suits climbers who have already walked in crampons and want their first serious Alpine four-thousander.

• The Bosses ridge at first light
• A night in the Goûter hut at 3,835 m
• Acclimatisation at the Aiguille du Midi and the Cosmiques hut
• 1:2 guiding on the summit days

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Briefing and preparation

   Chamonix and a kit check

   We meet in Chamonix (1,035 m) in the afternoon. The guides go through everyone’s kit, fit crampons and send you to the shops for anything missing. A short weather and plan briefing in the evening.

   Overnight: Hotel in Chamonix
2. 02
   DAY 2 · Acclimatisation to 3,842 m

   Aiguille du Midi to the Cosmiques hut

   The cable car lifts us to the Aiguille du Midi (3,842 m). We descend the snow arête into the Vallée Blanche and drill crampon technique, self-arrest and rope work. By late afternoon we walk over to the Cosmiques hut (3,613 m).

   Overnight: Cosmiques hut, 3,613 m
3. 03
   DAY 3 · AD ridge, 4 hours

   Cosmiques arête and back to the valley

   An early start on the Cosmiques arête, a mixed route with short rock steps that finishes on the Aiguille du Midi terrace. Around four hours of work between 3,600 and 3,840 m. We are back in Chamonix by lunchtime to rest.

   Overnight: Hotel in Chamonix
4. 04
   DAY 4 · 1,500 m of ascent

   Up to the Goûter hut

   The Mont Blanc tramway from Saint-Gervais takes us to the Nid d’Aigle (2,372 m). We walk to the Tête Rousse hut (3,167 m), cross the Grand Couloir while it is still quiet and scramble the rock rib to the Goûter hut (3,835 m). About 1,500 m of ascent.

   Overnight: Goûter hut, 3,835 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · Summit 4,808 m, 10–12 hours

   Summit day over the Dôme and the Bosses

   Away by 2 am. Over the Dôme du Goûter (4,304 m) and past the Vallot refuge (4,362 m) we gain the Bosses ridge, narrow but steady in good weather. The 4,808 m summit usually comes at 8–9 am, followed by four to five hours of descent to the Goûter or Tête Rousse hut.

   Overnight: Tête Rousse hut, 3,167 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · 1,500 m descent, reserve

   Down to Saint-Gervais, reserve day

   An easy descent to the Nid d’Aigle and the tramway down. If weather has pushed the summit back, this is the reserve day. Back in Chamonix by lunchtime; departures in the evening or the next morning.

   Overnight: —