Mont Blanc · Trois Monts

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

Three mountains on the way to one.

The Trois Monts route reaches Mont Blanc over the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit: a more technical and quieter line than the Goûter, with a steep ice step onto the Col du Mont Maudit and no stonefall-prone Grand Couloir. It starts and finishes at the Aiguille du Midi, with nights at the Cosmiques hut. For climbers who already have four-thousanders behind them and want to climb Mont Blanc as mountaineers.

• The ice step onto the Col du Mont Maudit, 4,345 m
• The Tacul shoulder at dawn
• Two nights at the Cosmiques hut
• 1:2 guiding throughout

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Preparation and a walk

   Chamonix and kit

   We meet in Chamonix (1,035 m) in the morning. Kit check, hire of anything missing and a talk with the guides about the week’s forecast. An afternoon walk to Planpraz (2,000 m) for a first bit of altitude.

   Overnight: Hotel in Chamonix
2. 02
   DAY 2 · Ice skills to 3,842 m

   Aiguille du Midi to the Cosmiques hut

   The cable car to the Aiguille du Midi (3,842 m), the snow arête down and half a day of skills in the Vallée Blanche: steep ice on crampons, ice screws and fixed-line descents. The Cosmiques hut (3,613 m) by evening.

   Overnight: Cosmiques hut, 3,613 m
3. 03
   DAY 3 · Acclimatisation to 4,248 m

   Mont Blanc du Tacul for acclimatisation

   Off at 4 am. The Tacul’s north slope with its crevasses and seracs to the shoulder at 4,100 m, and in good conditions the 4,248 m summit. About four hours up, then down to the Aiguille du Midi by lunchtime and the cable car to Chamonix.

   Overnight: Hotel in Chamonix
4. 04
   DAY 4 · Rest

   Rest in the valley

   A recovery day: sleep, food and a gentle walk along the Arve. The guides confirm the summit window and the state of the step onto the Col du Mont Maudit. Packing in the evening.

   Overnight: Hotel in Chamonix
5. 05
   DAY 5 · Transfer, 1 hour

   Back up to the Cosmiques hut

   The first cable car to the Aiguille du Midi and an easy hour across to the Cosmiques hut (3,613 m). Sleep in the afternoon and a short walk to the Col du Midi. Dinner at 6 pm, alarm at 0.30 am.

   Overnight: Cosmiques hut, 3,613 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · Summit 4,808 m, 12–13 hours

   Tacul, Maudit and the summit of Mont Blanc

   Off at 1 am. The Tacul shoulder (4,100 m), then the step of up to 50° on fixed ropes onto the Col du Mont Maudit (4,345 m), the Col de la Brenva (4,303 m), the Mur de la Côte and the 4,808 m summit around 8 am. Down the same way to the Aiguille du Midi for the last cable car, twelve to thirteen hours in all.

   Overnight: —