Upper Mustang · Lo Manthang

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

A motorcycle expedition into the forbidden kingdom.

From Pokhara up the Kali Gandaki gorge, the deepest on earth, via Jomsom and Kagbeni into Upper Mustang, closed to foreigners until 1992. A rocky road, river crossings, dust and wind lead to walled Lo Manthang at 3,840 m and the Chhoser caves. An expedition for strong riders who care more about the place than about comfort.

• Walled Lo Manthang, capital of Lo
• The Chhoser cave city and Ghar Gompa
• The Kali Gandaki gorge between Annapurna and Dhaulagiri
• Muktinath at 3,800 m and the Tatopani hot springs

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Briefing

   Pokhara on Lake Phewa

   Meeting in Pokhara at 820 m, a lakeside hotel, bike set-up and a permit check. Machapuchare at sunset if the sky is clear.

   Overnight: Hotel in Pokhara
2. 02
   DAY 2 · 110 km, tarmac and dirt

   Beni and the Tatopani hot springs

   Tarmac to Beni, then the rough road along the Kali Gandaki to Tatopani at 1,190 m. The first river crossings and a taste of the gorge between two 8,000-metre peaks.

   Overnight: Lodge in Tatopani
3. 03
   DAY 3 · 75 km, rock and fords

   Kalopani and Jomsom

   The deepest part of the gorge at Ghasa, the pines of Kalopani, lunch with Dhaulagiri, 8,167 m, in view, then the windy valley to Jomsom at 2,720 m.

   Overnight: Lodge in Jomsom
4. 04
   DAY 4 · 55 km, rough dirt

   Kagbeni and the gate to Upper Mustang

   Through Kagbeni at 2,800 m, where permits are checked, into the restricted zone. Along the Kali Gandaki riverbed and up the cliff road to Chele, then the Taram La pass, 3,750 m, and Geling.

   Overnight: Lodge in Geling, 3,570 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · 60 km, pass at 4,010 m

   Nyi La and the mani wall at Ghami

   The Nyi La pass at 4,010 m, the high point of the route, down to Ghami and Nepal’s longest mani wall, then Tsarang with its dzong and Lo Manthang by evening.

   Overnight: Lodge in Lo Manthang, 3,840 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · 30 km, dirt

   Lo Manthang and the Chhoser caves

   A morning inside the walls at the fifteenth-century Thubchen and Jampa monasteries. After lunch 15 km to the Jhong cave city at Chhoser and back, then an evening with a local family.

   Overnight: Lodge in Lo Manthang, 3,840 m
7. 07
   DAY 7 · 110 km, rough dirt

   Ghar Gompa and back to Kagbeni

   The return via the eighth-century Ghar Gompa and the red cliffs of Dhakmar, down through Ghami and Chele to Kagbeni. A long day on a road we now know.

   Overnight: Lodge in Kagbeni
8. 08
   DAY 8 · 60 km, dirt

   Muktinath and down to Marpha

   Up to the Muktinath temple at 3,800 m with its 108 water spouts, then down through Jharkot and Jomsom to the apple village of Marpha at 2,670 m.

   Overnight: Lodge in Marpha
9. 09
   DAY 9 · 180 km, dirt and tarmac

   Back to Pokhara

   The long descent through the gorge via Tatopani and Beni to Pokhara. Bikes returned, a shower and dinner by the lake.

   Overnight: Hotel in Pokhara
10. 10
    DAY 10 · Transfer

    Flight from Pokhara

    Breakfast and transfer to Pokhara airport for the flight to Kathmandu.

    Overnight: —