Photo: Wouter De Praetere ↗THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL
The king of South Tyrol.
The Ortler is the highest point of South Tyrol and of the Eastern Alps outside Switzerland, first climbed as long ago as 1804. The normal route from the Payer hut follows the protected Tabaretta rock ridge, the icy Bärenloch step and a broad summit plateau. Five days in the quiet Sulden valley for anyone wanting a serious summit without the crowds of Chamonix or Zermatt.
- The Tabaretta rock ridge above the drops
- The Payer hut at 3,029 m
- The Bärenloch ice crux and the summit plateau
- Stelvio National Park
With old friends or new ones
Join a group or arrange a separate departure for your own team. Before travelling, we get to know each other, discuss everyone's experience and find suitable dates. You can also prepare together.
DAY BY DAY
Your daily itinerary.
A provisional itinerary. Weather, group readiness and local conditions may change the order and length of the stages.
- DAY 1 · Briefing
Merano and the Sulden valley
We meet in Merano and drive an hour and a half to Sulden (1,900 m) beneath the Ortler’s north face. Kit check, a short walk to the Messner museum by the lift and a briefing with the guides.
Overnight: Hotel in Sulden - DAY 2 · Acclimatisation to 3,100 m
The Sulden glacier: skills and acclimatisation
The Sulden lift to 2,600 m and out onto the glacier: crampons on ice, steep firn, roped movement and abseiling on fixed lines. Up to 3,100 m at the foot of the Cevedale and back by evening.
Overnight: Hotel in Sulden - DAY 3 · 700 m of ascent, 3 hours
Via Tabaretta to the Payer hut
The Langenstein chairlift (2,330 m), the path to the Tabaretta hut (2,556 m) and on by zigzags and cables over the Bärenjoch to the Payer hut (3,029 m): 700 m in about three hours. In the afternoon we walk the first 100 m of the ridge so that the morning starts on familiar ground.
Overnight: Payer hut, 3,029 m - DAY 4 · Summit 3,905 m, 10–11 hours
The Ortler by the normal route
Off at 4 am. The cabled Tabaretta rock ridge (grade II), the Lombardi bivouac (3,316 m), then the Bärenloch ice slope of up to 45° and the Ortlerplatt glacier to the 3,905 m summit: 880 m of ascent in four and a half to five hours. Down the same way to the Payer hut and on to the lift, ten to eleven hours in all.
Overnight: Hotel in Sulden - DAY 5 · Reserve, transfer
Reserve day and departure
Reserve for the climb if the weather is unsettled, in which case we spend a second night at the Payer hut. Otherwise breakfast in Sulden and a transfer to Merano by noon.
Overnight: —
Included in the estimated price
Hotel in Sulden, 3 nights, half board
Payer hut with dinner and breakfast
IFMGA guides, 1:2 on the ascent
Langenstein chairlift
Training day on the Sulden glacier
Transfers from and to Merano
Not included in the price
Flights to the meeting point
Personal travel insurance and visas
Personal equipment
Single-room supplements and personal expenses
Lunches in the mountains
Personal kit hire
Single room supplement
YOUR PREPARATION
Arrive ready for the route.
At least one glacier summit, grade II scrambling on crampons and fitness for a nine to ten hour day. Ivan runs a day on rock in boots and crampons beforehand and helps with kit choice.
Prepare with IvanROUTE QUESTIONS
BEFORE WE MEET ON THE TRAIL
What to prepare in advance
- Footwear and warm layers for the specific mountain and season
- Sunglasses, gloves and spare mittens
- A headtorch and personal equipment from the guide's list
- For Kazbek: agreed crampons, harness and ice axe
Once we choose a date, we agree on the equipment list, meeting point and transfer time. Please wait until the programme is confirmed before booking flights.