Photo: Azzedine Rouichi ↗THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL
The easternmost 4,000 m peak in the Alps.
Piz Bernina is the only four-thousander of the Eastern Alps, and the traverse of Piz Palü’s three summits is counted among the finest snow ridges in Switzerland. We link them via the Marco e Rosa hut at 3,597 m, the highest in the Bernina, and the final rock ridge of the Spalla. A week for people who want plenty of ridge work and glacier scenery away from the main tourist valleys.
- The traverse of Piz Palü’s three summits
- The Spalla ridge onto Piz Bernina
- The Marco e Rosa hut at 3,597 m
- The Biancograt seen from the summit
With old friends or new ones
Join a group or arrange a separate departure for your own team. Before travelling, we get to know each other, discuss everyone's experience and find suitable dates. You can also prepare together.
DAY BY DAY
Your daily itinerary.
A provisional itinerary. Weather, group readiness and local conditions may change the order and length of the stages.
- DAY 1 · Briefing and a walk
Pontresina and a briefing
We meet in Pontresina (1,805 m) in the afternoon. Kit check, a look at the forecast and ridge conditions. A short walk to the snout of the Morteratsch glacier to see the Bernina from below.
Overnight: Hotel in Pontresina - DAY 2 · Glacier skills, 4 hours
Diavolezza and the Pers glacier
The cable car to Diavolezza (2,973 m). Half a day on the Pers glacier: crampons, steep firn and roped ridge movement. A night at the Berghaus on the station with the whole Palü wall in view.
Overnight: Berghaus Diavolezza, 2,973 m - DAY 3 · Summit 3,900 m, 9 hours
The Piz Palü traverse to Marco e Rosa
Off at 4 am. Across the Pers glacier to Palü’s east summit (3,882 m), along the snow ridge over the main summit (3,900 m) and west summit (3,823 m), then over the Bellavista and its terraces to the Marco e Rosa hut (3,597 m): about 1,300 m of ascent, eight to nine hours.
Overnight: Marco e Rosa hut, 3,597 m - DAY 4 · Summit 4,049 m, 6 hours
Piz Bernina by the Spalla ridge
Away at 5 am. The snow ridge to the Spalla (4,020 m) and grade II–III rock along the crest to the 4,049 m summit, 450 m of ascent in two and a half to three hours. Back to the hut by lunch, then an afternoon of rest with the Biancograt in view.
Overnight: Marco e Rosa hut, 3,597 m - DAY 5 · Descent, 5 hours
Down over the Fortezza to Diavolezza
Back over the Bellavista and the Fortezza ridge (3,291 m) onto the Pers glacier and up to Diavolezza, about five hours. The cable car down and the train to Pontresina for a valley dinner.
Overnight: Hotel in Pontresina - DAY 6 · Reserve
Reserve day and departure
A spare day for the Bernina: in bad weather a second night at Marco e Rosa moves the descent to this morning. Otherwise breakfast in Pontresina and departure by train via St. Moritz.
Overnight: —
Included in the estimated price
Hotel in Pontresina, 2 nights, breakfast
Berghaus Diavolezza and Marco e Rosa hut, 3 nights, half board
IFMGA guides, 1:2 on the ridges
Diavolezza cable car
Group climbing kit
Training day on the Pers glacier
Not included in the price
Flights to the meeting point
Personal travel insurance and visas
Personal equipment
Single-room supplements and personal expenses
Dinners in Pontresina
Personal kit hire
Travel to St. Moritz
YOUR PREPARATION
Arrive ready for the route.
Two glacier summits, grade II–III scrambling on crampons and the endurance for several consecutive eight to ten hour days. Ivan runs a preparation weekend with roped ridge work.
Prepare with IvanROUTE QUESTIONS
BEFORE WE MEET ON THE TRAIL
What to prepare in advance
- Footwear and warm layers for the specific mountain and season
- Sunglasses, gloves and spare mittens
- A headtorch and personal equipment from the guide's list
- For Kazbek: agreed crampons, harness and ice axe
Once we choose a date, we agree on the equipment list, meeting point and transfer time. Please wait until the programme is confirmed before booking flights.