Spaghetti Tour · Monte Rosa

THE JOURNEY IN DETAIL

Eight summits in a single week.

The Spaghetti Tour is a hut-to-hut traverse of the Italian side of the Monte Rosa massif, above 4,000 m every day and collecting new summits almost daily: Breithorn, Pollux, Castor, Piramide Vincent, Ludwigshöhe, Parrotspitze, Zumsteinspitze and Punta Gnifetti. The name comes from the Italian cooking in the huts; the finale is a night at the Capanna Margherita at 4,554 m, the highest building in Europe. There is no better way to bank a week of altitude experience.

• A night at the Capanna Margherita, 4,554 m
• Castor and Pollux in one day
• Four summits in a row from the Gnifetti hut
• Italian dinners in the huts

1. 01
   DAY 1 · Briefing

   Gathering in Zermatt

   We meet in Zermatt (1,608 m) in the afternoon. Kit check, a run through the week with the guides and an early dinner. A pack for the week should weigh no more than 9 kg, a briefing topic in its own right.

   Overnight: Hotel in Zermatt
2. 02
   DAY 2 · Summit 4,164 m, 6 hours

   The Breithorn and the Guide d’Ayas hut

   From the Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m) up the Breithorn (4,164 m), then over the Breithornpass and down the Verra glacier to the Guide d’Ayas hut (3,394 m). About six hours, a first summit and a first night above 3,000 m.

   Overnight: Guide d’Ayas hut, 3,394 m
3. 03
   DAY 3 · Summits 4,092 and 4,228 m, 9 hours

   Pollux, Castor and the Quintino Sella hut

   Off at 4 am. Pollux (4,092 m) by its chained south-west ridge, then across the glacier to Castor (4,228 m) up a steep snow slope and along a narrow crest. Down over the Felikjoch to the Quintino Sella hut (3,585 m), eight to nine hours.

   Overnight: Quintino Sella hut, 3,585 m
4. 04
   DAY 4 · Summit 4,272 m, 7 hours

   Naso del Lyskamm and the Gnifetti hut

   A traverse beneath the Lyskamm on the Lys glacier. In good conditions the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m) by a snow slope of up to 45°, otherwise a detour via the Lisjoch. Down to the Gnifetti hut (3,647 m), the largest in the massif, six to seven hours.

   Overnight: Gnifetti hut, 3,647 m
5. 05
   DAY 5 · Four summits, 8 hours

   Four summits to the Capanna Margherita

   The fullest day: Piramide Vincent (4,215 m), Corno Nero (4,321 m), Ludwigshöhe (4,341 m) and Parrotspitze (4,432 m) by ridges and glacier plateaux, all above 4,000 m. Finish at the Capanna Margherita on Punta Gnifetti (4,554 m), seven to eight hours.

   Overnight: Capanna Margherita, 4,554 m
6. 06
   DAY 6 · Summit 4,563 m, 6 hours

   Zumsteinspitze and down to Gressoney

   Dawn from the highest building in Europe. A short climb of the Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m) along the ridge from the Colle Gnifetti, then descent via the Lisjoch to the Gnifetti hut and the Punta Indren lift (3,275 m). Gressoney-La-Trinité by evening, five to six hours on foot.

   Overnight: Hotel in Gressoney
7. 07
   DAY 7 · Transfer and departure

   Return to Zermatt and departure

   Transfer from Gressoney via Aosta and the Simplon to Zermatt or Visp, about four hours. Departures in the afternoon; if weather delayed the traverse this day is the reserve for the descent.

   Overnight: —